[Recipe] "Wine Country" Coq Au Vin

"Wine Country" Coq Au Vin
a recipe by Anne Burrell

Coq au vin means, literally, "cock (rooster) in wine" and is, also literally, a chicken braised in wine-- typically Burgundy, though other types of wine may be used.  The dish became very popular in the United States thanks to Julia Child, who featured the dish in her famous 1961 cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and also on her PBS cooking show The French Chef.  Perhaps because of Julia Child, coq au vin is seen as quite refined and also as a somewhat challenging dish to master (here's a list on Epicurious listing it as one of the most difficult/laborious dishes to make), but it's quite rustic, really, and is actually considered French country cooking.  It has a lot of ingredients but not a lot of complicated steps, in my opinion.  In other words, in some ways it's the perfect dish for me, the cliche "me on a plate"-- deceptively refined, actually not fancy at all-- rich and elegant and hearty and warm, the perfect main course served over hot buttered noodles.

Ingredients for Coq au Vin (8 to 10 servings)
olive oil
one 6-8 pound capon, cut into 8 to 10 pieces (you can use regular chicken if you can't find a capon)
kosher salt
all-purpose flour, for dusting
8 ounces slab bacon, cut into lardons
3 ribs celery, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1 pound cremini or white button mushrooms, quartered
1/2 cup brandy
1/4 cup tomato paste
3 cups hearty red wine  (like Burgundy)
8 ounces cipollini onions (if you can't find cipollini opinions, pearl onions are a good substitute)
4 to 6 cups chicken stock
* Note: I made my potatoes separately, as one of my friends is vegetarian.  If not adding the potatoes, less chicken stock will be required, maybe just 3 to 4 cups.
3 bay leaves
1 bundle fresh thyme
12 ounces fingerling potatoes, cut in 1-inch slices
fresh chives, finely chopped, for garnish

Directions
1.  Coat a large 7-quart Dutch oven or rondeau with olive oil and bring to a medium-high heat.  Pat the capon (or chicken) dry and sprinkle generously with salt.  Working in batches if necessary, coat the capon gently with flour and put immediately in the hot oil.  Only flour the capon that you are working with in that batch-- no premature flouring, please.  Premature flouring will result in doughy, gritty, mealy capon rather than crispy.  Brown on all sides and then remove from the pan to paper towels.  Remove any excess oil from the pan.

2.  Reduce the heat to medium and add the bacon lardons to the pan with a tiny splash of new olive oil.  Cook the bacon until it is brown and crispy.  Add the celery and onions, season with salt, and cook until the veggies are starting to soften, are very aromatic, and have no color, 7 to 8 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.  Add the mushrooms and cook until the mushrooms give off their juices, 4 to 5 minutes.

3.  Stir in the brandy and cook until it has reduced down.  Add the tomato paste and stir to combine.  The mixture will become very thick.  Stir in the wine and bring the mixture to a boil and cook for 4 to 5 minutes.

4.  Meanwhile, bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil over medium heat.  Toss in the cipollini onions, skin and all.  Cook the onions for 3 to 4 minutes and then strain.  When the onions are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard, reserving the onions.

5.  Return the legs and thighs of the capon to the pan, reserving the breasts.  Stir in enough chicken stock until the chicken is three-quarters covered.  Add the bay leaves and thyme.  Bring the mixture to a boil, and then reduce the heat to a simmer.  Taste for seasoning and adjust if needed.  Add the cipollini onions and the potatoes.  Partially cover the pan and simmer for 20 minutes.

* Note: I made my potatoes separately, as one of my friends is vegetarian.  If not adding the potatoes, less chicken stock will be required.

6.  After the capon has simmered for 20 minutes, turn the legs and thighs over and add the breasts.  Check the level of liquid and add more chicken stock if needed.  Partially cover the pan and simmer for another 15 minutes.

7.  Remove the capon from the pan and skim the sauce if necessary.  If the sauce is on the thin side, reduce it down until it becomes a sauce-like consistency.  Season.  Transfer the capon to a serving platter, garnish with chopped chives, and serve with lots of sauce.

[Sunday Supper Menu] "Simple Elegance" Menu - Coq Au Vin

New York City is a city of lights, glamour, and so much color and noise.  Everything is bright and shiny and fast and crowded.  All the things you love about it can also become the things you hate.  It's important to step away from the glitz and the commotion, to have an oasis, to not be jostled and to have to shout at your friends to be heard in a crowded bar.

When I moved into my current apartment, one of the things I loved the most about it was the size of the dining room (that, and the newly renovated kitchen).  I envisioned myself hosting fabulous dinner parties in my new space.  After months of searching, I eventually found my dream extendable dining table and Sunday Suppers-- quiet, relaxed, and in the comfort of my own home-- finally became reality.

Sunday suppers are my new thing, and they can be yours, too.  Check in periodically for menu posts such as these, which compile full menus and recipes (sometimes with separate write-ups that, I promise, promise, promise are truly forthcoming).  These menus are all designed to not only "go" together but to be executable by just one person in one full day (or two half-days, which is usually how I prepare).

This particular menu was for my second Sunday supper rather than my first (I know, I'm woefully behind on my blogging) and was meant to showcase one particular dish: coq au vin.

I'd never made coq au vin before, but I love it.  It is rich and elegant and hearty and warm, the perfect main course served over hot buttered noodles.  And to showcase it, I decided on a large variety of simple, but flavorful, vegetable sides.

"Pick of the Harvest" Roasted Butternut Squash and Apple Salad - Recipe in This Post

An oldie but a goodie-- one of my few repeat recipes.  I could eat this salad for days-- which is saying a lot, mainly because Sunday Suppers typically result in leftovers and also because I don't tend to like salads.

"Simple Sophisticate" Veggie Pot Pie Muffins - Recipe in This Post

"High Society" Haricot Verts with Shallots (AKA French Green Beans with Shallots)

a recipe by Once Upon a Chef

This recipe consists of mainly three ingredients: haricot verts, shallots, and extra virgin olive oil.  You don't get much simpler than that, though the dish is elegant in its simplicity, relying largely on the sweet and savory flavor of the shallots to carry the dish.

Ingredients (4 servings)

3/4 pound (12 ounces) haricot verts (French green beans-- these are longer, thinner, sweeter and more tender than American green beans), trimmed

2 large shallots, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

about 1 cup of water

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions

1.  Thinly slice the shallots into rings.  Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat.  Add the shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and mellow, about 8 minutes.

2.  Add the haricot verts, salt, and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, for about 2 minutes.

3.  Add 1/2 cup of the water and cook, stirring frequently, until the water evaporates, 4-5 minutes.  Add the remaining 1/2 cup of water and continue cooking until the beans are tender and the pan is completely dry, 5-6 minutes.  Test the beans for doneness.  If they need more cooking time, add a bit more water and cook until done; just be sure to cook off any remaining liquid in the pan before serving; otherwise, the flavor will be diluted.  Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary.

"Color Me Pretty" Smashed Potatoes

a recipe by The Pioneer Woman

I love potatoes to an almost embarrassing degree.  I love them mashed, creamy, baked, fried, and every which way.  In fact, my love for potatoes is so embarrassing that I don't keep potato chips in my house as a general rule-- I'd eat them all way too quickly.  And I could never live carb-free, not because I love bread but because I love potatoes.  Potatoes are just unassuming and tasty but incredibly easy to make.

My dinner guests should learn to (and probably have) expect some form of potato when they come.  I try to change it up every now and then with a different recipe or, in this case, with different colors.

Ingredients

new potatoes (or other small, round potatoes-- I used a variety of colorful fingerlings)

olive oil

kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper

rosemary (or thyme or chives or a blend of all three, which is what I used), finely chopped

Directions

1.  Preheat the oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.

2.  Bring a salted pot of water to boil.  Once boiling, add as many potatoes as you like, and cook them until they're fork-tender.

3.  Generously drizzle a baking sheet or baking pan with olive oil.  Note that the olive oil will keep the potatoes from sticking to the pan, so truly be generous!
4.  When the potatoes are fork-tender, place them on the prepared baking sheet or baking pan, with enough room between them to spread out.  Using a potato masher (or a large spoon or fork), gently press down on a potato until it is slightly mashed, twisting the masher 90 degrees to continue flattening the potato.  Be careful not to completely mash the potato.  Repeat until all potatoes are flattened.
5.  Using a pastry brush, brush the tops of the smashed potatoes generously with olive oil.
6.  Sprinkle the potatoes generously with the kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, and herb blend.
7.  Cook in the oven for 20-25 minutes, or until the potatoes are crispy and sizzling.

"Wine Country" Coq Au Vin - Recipe in This Post

My boss heard that I was hosting a dinner party and offered up a bottle of port (Three Monkeys Shizaru Napa Valley 2006, to be precise).  It had a super-cute label, so of course we used it.  It was the perfect accompaniment/after-dinner drink and had a delightfully sweet finish.

"Melt in Heaven" Chocolate Mousse with Raspberries and Homemade Whipped Cream - Recipe in This Post (To Come)

Chocolate mousse with homemade whipped cream was definitely the perfect ending note for this particular dinner party-- like the rest of the menu, its simplicity belies its elegance.  Even my dessert-hating friend had a few bites and begrudgingly admitted it was delicious.

[Recipe] Game of Thrones - Jerk "Dragon" Wings

My friend Doug is obsessed with jerk chicken, which is served every Friday in the company cafeteria.  So obsessed, in fact, that I once received a group txt (from him) of a picture of a large pile of jerk chicken wings with the caption, "I'm going to make this my new wallpaper."  It should come as no surprise, then, that when I asked him what he'd like me to serve at one of my Sunday suppers, he said, without any hesitation, "Jerk chicken!"

I'm always up for a challenge, and I saw an opportunity for a particularly groan-worthy pun for my Game of Thrones Premiere Appetizer Party-- namely, Jerk "Dragon" Wings... because the dragons are jerks.  And because they have wings... get it?!

... as luck would have it, Doug was actually out of town the night of the premiere and didn't even get to try my dragon wings, but everyone else gave rave reviews.  This is definitely a winning recipe, no tweaks needed at all (though I'll make a PSA/give a pro-- or maybe amateur-- tip below).

Jerk "Dragon" Wings
... because the dragons are jerks
a recipe by Chef John (AllRecipes.com)

Ingredients
1/2 yellow onion, chopped
1/2 cup green onions (scallions), sliced
6 cloves garlic
3 habanero peppers, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
2 teaspoons ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/3 cup lime juice
3 pounds chicken wing drumettes

Public Service Announcement - Habanero Peppers Warning/Tutorial
Like the Bluths, I've made a huge mistake.  I've worked with jalapenos in the past before, completely bare-handed, and had zero issues, so it didn't even occur to me that handling other peppers bare-handed would be a bad idea.  But it really was-- my hands burned for hours after handling, and I had to soak my hands in cream, milk, olive oil, vodka, etc.-- anything that the Internet suggested, honestly-- for relief.  It was really only around bedtime that they stopped burning.

So, here's my pro (or really amateur) tip: please use gloves when handling habanero.  You're welcome.

If you don't have gloves or have already started handling the habaneros gloveless, rub your hands with olive oil immediately after handling (Canola oil will work as well), then wash with Dawn as opposed to hand soap.  The issue is the juice/oil from the hot peppers, which you don't want to seep into the grooves of your skin-- oil will mix with the existing pepper oil, lifting it out-- as opposed to water, which does not mix with oil and will do very little to help.

Directions
1.  Put yellow onion, green onions, garlic, habanero peppers, fresh thyme, kosher salt, black pepper, allspice, dried thyme, cinnamon, cumin, nutmeg, vegetable oil, soy sauce, brown sugar, and lime juice in a blender and blend until marinade is completely smooth.

2.  Place chicken in a large bowl or pan.  Pour marinade over chicken and toss to coat completely.  Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours or overnight.

3.  Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.  Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with cooking spray.

4.  Place chicken drumettes on prepared baking sheet or pan and reserve marinade left in the bowl.

5.  Bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes.

6.  Brush 1/2 the reserved marinade onto the chicken and turn the wings over.  Bake for 15 minutes.

7.  Turn chicken and brush on remaining 1/2 the reserved marinade.  Bake until tender and caramelized, 10 to 15 minutes or more.  An instant-read thermometer inserted near the bone should read 165 degrees Fahrenheit.  Rest wings on baking sheet for 5 minutes before removing to a serving platter. 

[Recipe] [Blue Apron] Matzoh-Crusted Chicken with Orange, Fennel and Golden Beet Salad

Restaurants are bad.  There, I said it.

I don't mean they're bad as in, they don't serve delicious food.  I mean they're bad as in, the portions are gigantic and everything is smothered in butter and cream and deep fried.  It's so delicious, but it's also incredibly easy to gain weight, even if you keep otherwise relatively healthy habits.

As you've probably surmised, I love to cook, but I generally cook for one (except when I'm throwing a dinner party), and my worklife keeps me so busy that it's often difficult to go shopping for groceries.  Plus, there's the part where I live in NYC, making it much more difficult to shop for groceries alone—I just can't carry that many bags back with me from the store.  Never have I missed suburbia more.

Enter, "meals by mail," programs/packages that aim to make cooking as easy as, well, checking your mail.  For a fee, they deliver the precise amount of groceries you need to make a set number of meals for one or two people (or a family of four, if that's what you are) directly to your door.  The Blue Apron kit comes with beautifully photographed step-by-step instructions.

I had my first shipment this weekend and am already so excited about my refrigerator full of home-cooked meals, which I'll be bringing to work for lunch and/or dinner all week.  I'll be posting a few recipes from the program as I go, as well as pictures of some of the other meals (without recipes).  Check out this link to see which of these services is right for you-- and let me know your thoughts!

Matzoh-Crusted Chicken with Orange, Fennel and Golden Beet Salad

A recipe by Blue Apron

I decided to post this recipe, out of the three that I received this week, because I'm so enamored of this salad.

Ingredients

2 chicken breast cutlets, pounded

1/2 cup matzoh meal (if you don't have matzoh meal, panko bread crumbs will suffice)

1 fennel bulb

1 golden beet

1 red onion

1 navel orange

1 bunch parsley

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

water
2 to 3 tablespoons canola oil

1 to 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
salt

pepper

Directions

1.  Prepare the produce.  Wash and dry all the fresh produce.  Peel and thinly slice the onion.  Peel the beet and cut it in half lengthwise; very thinly slice the halves.  Cut off and discard any fennel stems and fronds (that is, the green, thread-like tops of the plant).  Halve the fennel bulb lengthwise; remove and discard the core.  Thinly slice the fennel bulb.  Pick the parsley leaves off the stems; discard the stems.  Cut off and discard the peel and pith of the orange; medium dice the orange.

2.  Pickle the onion.  In a medium pan (non-stick, preferably), combine the sugar, vinegar, onion and 1/4 cup of water, and season with salt and pepper.  Heat to boiling on medium-high heat.  Once boiling, cook 1 to 2 minutes, or until the liquid is slightly reduced in volume.  Transfer the onions and pickling liquid to a heatproof bowl and set aside.  Carefully rinse and dry the pan.

3.  Coat the chicken.  In a large bowl, combine the mustard and 3 tablespoons of water.  Pat the chicken breast cutlets dry with paper towels; season with salt and pepper on both sides.  Place the matzoh meal in a bowl.  Working one at a time, coat the seasoned chicken cutlets in the mustard-water mixture (letting the excess drip off), then the matzoh meal (tapping off any excess).  Transfer the coated chicken cutlets to a plate.

4.  Cook the chicken.  In the same pan used to pickle the onion, heat a thin layer of canola oil on medium-high until hot.  Add the coated chicken cutlets and cook 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until golden brown and cooked through.  Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate.

5.  Make the salad.  Reserving 1 tablespoon of the pickling liquid, drain the pickled onion.  In a large bowl, combine the orange, fennel, beet and drained pickled onion.  Add the reserved pickling liquid; drizzle with olive oil and toss to coat.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Here's the final product of the other recipe I liked in this batch: 

Korean Beef Dukbokki with Quick Kimchi and Fresh Peas

Dukbokki is a Korean cylindrical rice cake.  We Taiwanese have a rice cake as well—ours is flat, but I think, for these purposes, the cylindrical rice cake really kicks butt, as they're easier to saute in shallow oil for a crunchy exterior and soft interior that is seriously addictive.

One part of this recipe is especially worth repeating/posting: the "quick kimchi" was truly tasty and took very little time.  I'm not able to eat super spicy foods, so I don't usually love kimchi, but this was incredibly refreshing.

Ingredients
1/2 pound Napa cabbage
1 clove garlic
1-2-inch piece of ginger
(up to) 2 teaspoons gochugaru (Korean chili flakes)
extra virgin olive oil

Directions
1.  Wash and dry the fresh produce.  Peel and mince the garlic and ginger.  Cut out and discard the core of the cabbage; thinly slice the leaves.
2.  In a large bowl, combine the cabbage, the garlic, the ginger, and as much gochugaru as you like, depending on how spicy you'd like the dish to be.  Stir in a drizzle of olive oil and season with salt to taste.  Set aside and let marinate, tossing occasionally, for at least ten minutes.